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When it rains it pours and at Kenzo we were told a story of water, that is to say Creative Director’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim created a collection with all the components of water. The collection was clean, the cuts either clinical or flowing delivered a show that was altogether a soothing addition to Paris for spring.

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Ask anyone caught up in Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris on Friday 20th January what they witnessed and the answer might prove to be a bit of an understatement.

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Not a boy, not yet a man. MARNI’s male filled no big boots this season and instead, held respectful ground merging elegance with adolescence.

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Damir Doma took us back and forth this season with a clever mix of prehistoric references intertwined with classic staples in a show that catered for the luxe life.

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No frogs presented themselves at Lucas Ossendrijver’s menswear collection for the French house Lanvin this season. Instead a modern day Prince toyed with a variety of heavy prints and romantic angles.

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A romantic movement set the scene for a Rick Owens show like no other in the raw underground setting of the Palais de Bercy complimenting, once more, the conceptual take Owens adds to functional inspiration.

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Sacha Walckhoff recognised the roots of Paris fashion house Christian Lacroix this season with heavy trinket trunk embellishment and a take on the sack suit in a combination of loose tailoring and heavy expression.

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Central Saint Martins Graduate, Phoebe English, has been named this years Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner following her participation in the Ones to Watch show.

Phoebe English

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Newly appointed Creative Director Bill Gaytten seemed a crass topic to discuss or visualise this season. Fashion, more than ever becoming a business, doesn’t stop turning for anybody. Not even when the former Creative Director, John Galliano, stood trial a mere 48 hours before the showcasing of the new Galliano S/S ’12 collection. Jumping into the anti-semitic grave with good intentions is bound to cause a rather pressurised stir.

 

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Paris Fashion Week closed on a smokey high as Kate Moss broke every rule in the book by delivering her cellulite driven backside cheeks down a runway in a smoking hot Mongolian jacket fitted head to toe in latex and pvc hotpants. The media went crazy. Like a pack of hyenas catching the scent of fresh blood they flocked to cover the spectacle. Yet GaGa went understated, under covered and under rated as she took to the catwalk for Thierry Mugler.

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