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“Clean room, clean mind” my mother always used to tell me, a precedent that heavily influenced my preference in design aesthetic. In toddler talk, Neil Barrett’s SS14 collection was clean, simplistic and humble. His designs were just that, heavily design led.  Read the rest of this entry »

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Kris Van Assche AW13

Questionably over shadowed for some time by his former colleague, Heidi Slimane, Kris Van Assche was recalled stating in an earlier interview with Interview Magazine that: “this skinny, rock ’n’ roll look had become such a cliché in the streets that any designer would have had to take this collection in a new direction.” That he did, albeit through his new season collection at his eponymous label.

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Joan Rivers once said: “The only thing women don’t want to find in their stockings on Christmas day is their husband.” Preferences aside we’ve selected the best last minute gift ideas for your man to give his wardrobe that overdue stylish booster he just doesn’t seem to have.

French Connection, £225, Frenchconnection.com

French Connection, £225, Frenchconnection.com

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“Education was a struggle. I suppose my work reflects that! Think for yourself, question authority,” Alex Mattsson tells me. Since graduating from The Royal College of Art in menswear Mattsson has been toying with leather, season to season. With an education shared by the likes of knitwear specialist James Long among Katie Eary and Erdem success seems set in cement for those particular few. Mattsson appears to be no exception.

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Alan Taylor, previously working with Simone Rocha, has taken to redefining the perception of the word ‘masculine’. This season his man is stripped of masculinity, rebuilt and made once more in his new collection that sees tribal referencing, social unrest and chaos with a cause, redefine his definition of menswear entirely.

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I rarely get hysterical about editorial photography, especially menswear. Copious amounts of editing, for me, hinders the idea that fashion photography is there to demonstrate the creative perspective on fashion. Often clothes are too obscured and the concept too conceptual to convey a clear editorial message. After all we’re all buyers as much as we are editorial fans.

Blazers and shorts both by Jil Sander SS12, regal and tartan shirts stylists own.

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After graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2007, James Long debuted his collection at MAN, a Topman sponsored platform, that same year. His own label has since gone from strength to strength and Long has become the first menswear designer to receive an award from Fashion Forward (a growing scheme funding selected new design talent in London).  He also has lucrative consultancy work with Versace. What’s most exciting, however, is how well James Long combines his creativity with a knowledge of what his customer wants (and needs).

Finale at James Long AW12

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Matthew Miller is a new name on the London menswear scene. The introduction of this Royal College of Art MA Graduate to the schedule this year saw his first standalone show presented at the Portico Rooms of Somerset House.

Having previously presented as part of Fashion East, Miller has demonstrated his interest in combining technology with great menswear design. This season he fused the two in a collection entitled ‘Expedition’.

Matthew Miller AW12 (photo catwalking.com)

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Receiving the NEWGEN MEN sponsorship in just 2010 Christopher Shannon has propelled his label to new heights in only a matter of years. This Central Saint Martins graduate should be hanging up in every man’s wardrobe by next season, and you don’t even need to be a fashion frenzied animal to adorn a collection suited for you, me, them and us.

Christopher Shannon (photo catwalking.com)

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Autumn/Winter is over. With James Long, J.W Anderson, Oliver Spencer and Christopher Raeburn out the way for yet another season the fun ends, for London at least. Yet with the end of Autumn Winter usually brings the beginning of production for Spring Summer, and it’s just beginning to hit the shelves. Here’s my round-up of the best Spring Summer 2012 investment T-shirts that buy into a colourful, unorthodox and playful quality in menswear… print.

D&G available on http://www.luisaviaroma.com.

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