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Oxblood red begun, this season, with an undoubtedly sinister approach from designer Christopher Kane. His differentiation from last seasons elegance boiled down to lacquered fabrics, adding a dense shine, depicting connotation of fresh blood, nothing here was conservative. Outerwear came in the form of full-length coats, opened of course, to reveal cut out cropped bustier tops in dominating black leather. Contrasting to this was Aquascutum, again following in form with outerwear this oxblood was far more demure, dull even. Boxy, turned down collars framed full-length coats with buckled cuffs and a patent leather trims.

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This season we’re looking at oriental brocade, embroideries and prints. Both here in Europe and across the pond there has once again been a vast Eastern influence in many designers’ collections. From Jason Wu’s Ming Dynasty warriors to Proenza Schouler’s Samurai inspired take on ‘protection’ this season saw an integration of Eastern influence reformed and redefined by its Western aesthetic.

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Matthew Miller is a new name on the London menswear scene. The introduction of this Royal College of Art MA Graduate to the schedule this year saw his first standalone show presented at the Portico Rooms of Somerset House.

Having previously presented as part of Fashion East, Miller has demonstrated his interest in combining technology with great menswear design. This season he fused the two in a collection entitled ‘Expedition’.

Matthew Miller AW12 (photo catwalking.com)

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Receiving the NEWGEN MEN sponsorship in just 2010 Christopher Shannon has propelled his label to new heights in only a matter of years. This Central Saint Martins graduate should be hanging up in every man’s wardrobe by next season, and you don’t even need to be a fashion frenzied animal to adorn a collection suited for you, me, them and us.

Christopher Shannon (photo catwalking.com)

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