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Joshua Capulet met up with fashion student Mark Williams to discuss his final collection as he investigates the bloody but beautiful side to fashion.

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Christopher Bailey has confronted the boundaries of quintessential British design with a post-modern approach to which the Prorsum collection always delivers ambiguity. The masculine tailoring partnered with belted waistlines and hide trimmed duffel coats gave way to a collection far more feminine in fragility than previously suspected. Yet before Bailey’s U turn in gender related design an opening of virtual rain decorated the head board to the catwalk whilst finishing with a much more real type of wet as rain ultimately drenched the entire catwalk.

Unlike Bailey’s tendencies to stick firmly to re modifying the classic and masculine trench coat we were greeted with the likes of astakhan collars framing tailored caban coats in soft baby blues and check felted wool. Shawl collars made entirely of mink decorated black top coats whilst brown mink coats were complimented with lighter shades of suede trimming.

The feminine stance taken by Bailey delivered much deliberation as to the capability of conforming to a sales target, with shawl collars made of mink raising a traditionalist eye brow or two the approach for this collection was certainly no macho mans dream. In fact, the collection gave off a much younger, metro sexual appeal. Over sized sculptural coats engulfed the models with skinny legged grey trousers. The image partly gave way to interpretation of “dress up”. The image of a young boy dressed in his fathers clothes was created through size and the sheer strength in material Bailey decided upon using.

Single breasted trench coats made of laminated wool in bright amber were accompanied with nylon tote bags in dark wine whilst an over sized sculptural coat made entirely of mink fur with leather binding was paired with fur flap caps.

Bailey has been scrutinised for his latest menswear collection yet it is necessary to remember that Burberry has always been an out-wear label and through Bailey’s curiosity and exploration with the elements he ripped the roots of the Prorsum tree out of the ground and displayed them in a rather re-invented manner.

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