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Alan Taylor, previously working with Simone Rocha, has taken to redefining the perception of the word ‘masculine’. This season his man is stripped of masculinity, rebuilt and made once more in his new collection that sees tribal referencing, social unrest and chaos with a cause, redefine his definition of menswear entirely.

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Creative director Nicola Formichetti’s new menswear collection demonstrated a darker play between designer and body as veiling and draping both encapsulated and revealed the human form. As observation and curiosity grew it was easy enough to allow the exclusive preview of Lady GaGa’s new song from the unreleased album, Born this way, to over shadow the velocity of talent and heritage tradition Formichetti displayed. The new creative director of Mugler certainly stayed true to Mugler’s keen interest in the human body and demonstrated a beautifully dark array of tailoring and veiling.

Sharp angular cuts kept the menswear masculine whilst exaggerated veiling and elbow length latex gloves gave way to an obscure and unconventional silhouette. The face of the A/W ’11 show lay with tattoo decorated male Rick Genest, as his inside-out body art was decorated in a single breasted suit jacket with leather torn jeans and laced black boots. Mirrored panels also lay as under shirts to Mugler’s navy suits creating constant contrast.

Other models showcased an array of traditional tailoring in blossoming oranges and tamed navies partnered with wide, free flowing draped trousers which pinched snug around the ankle to form a thigh loose appearance. High collars that engulfed the neck led way to chiselled jaw lines framed with embroidered pearls  working their way from shoulder to shoulder, again draping elegantly down a backdrop of nude and navy.

Cropped torso jackets also emphasised the male figure as the torso lay bare on show whilst layered shawl collars trailed down into long-sleeved blazers and loose fitted cuffs. With Nicola Formichetti having no previous design experience, instead coming from a solely styling position, the angle to which the designs took were true to that of Mugler himself as body formation was explored through a range of tailored fits and exaggerated head braces.

To accompany the vision of Anatomy of Change the show featured a short fashion film into the vision of fashion and the human body. A genderless undertone shone from the film which was directed by fashion photographer Mariano Vivanco. The film exposed the vision of fashion as a frame-work around a body made up of something more staple and static as Mariano Vivanco expressed fashion as an enhanced branch of the beauty we possess under our very own skin.

photo credit: Jac & Jill

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