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KVA 3

Kris Van Assche AW13

Questionably over shadowed for some time by his former colleague, Heidi Slimane, Kris Van Assche was recalled stating in an earlier interview with Interview Magazine that: “this skinny, rock ’n’ roll look had become such a cliché in the streets that any designer would have had to take this collection in a new direction.” That he did, albeit through his new season collection at his eponymous label.

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Discard the singular idea of fashion for purpose alone. This season designers laced the garment with elegance; counteracting any stereotypical connotation the puffa is bulky, unflattering and excessive in volume alone.

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Oxblood red begun, this season, with an undoubtedly sinister approach from designer Christopher Kane. His differentiation from last seasons elegance boiled down to lacquered fabrics, adding a dense shine, depicting connotation of fresh blood, nothing here was conservative. Outerwear came in the form of full-length coats, opened of course, to reveal cut out cropped bustier tops in dominating black leather. Contrasting to this was Aquascutum, again following in form with outerwear this oxblood was far more demure, dull even. Boxy, turned down collars framed full-length coats with buckled cuffs and a patent leather trims.

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This season we’re looking at oriental brocade, embroideries and prints. Both here in Europe and across the pond there has once again been a vast Eastern influence in many designers’ collections. From Jason Wu’s Ming Dynasty warriors to Proenza Schouler’s Samurai inspired take on ‘protection’ this season saw an integration of Eastern influence reformed and redefined by its Western aesthetic.

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Autumn/Winter is over. With James Long, J.W Anderson, Oliver Spencer and Christopher Raeburn out the way for yet another season the fun ends, for London at least. Yet with the end of Autumn Winter usually brings the beginning of production for Spring Summer, and it’s just beginning to hit the shelves. Here’s my round-up of the best Spring Summer 2012 investment T-shirts that buy into a colourful, unorthodox and playful quality in menswear… print.

D&G available on http://www.luisaviaroma.com.

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Ask anyone caught up in Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris on Friday 20th January what they witnessed and the answer might prove to be a bit of an understatement.

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Not a boy, not yet a man. MARNI’s male filled no big boots this season and instead, held respectful ground merging elegance with adolescence.

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Damir Doma took us back and forth this season with a clever mix of prehistoric references intertwined with classic staples in a show that catered for the luxe life.

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No frogs presented themselves at Lucas Ossendrijver’s menswear collection for the French house Lanvin this season. Instead a modern day Prince toyed with a variety of heavy prints and romantic angles.

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A romantic movement set the scene for a Rick Owens show like no other in the raw underground setting of the Palais de Bercy complimenting, once more, the conceptual take Owens adds to functional inspiration.

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