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“Clean room, clean mind” my mother always used to tell me, a precedent that heavily influenced my preference in design aesthetic. In toddler talk, Neil Barrett’s SS14 collection was clean, simplistic and humble. His designs were just that, heavily design led.  Read the rest of this entry »

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Oxblood red begun, this season, with an undoubtedly sinister approach from designer Christopher Kane. His differentiation from last seasons elegance boiled down to lacquered fabrics, adding a dense shine, depicting connotation of fresh blood, nothing here was conservative. Outerwear came in the form of full-length coats, opened of course, to reveal cut out cropped bustier tops in dominating black leather. Contrasting to this was Aquascutum, again following in form with outerwear this oxblood was far more demure, dull even. Boxy, turned down collars framed full-length coats with buckled cuffs and a patent leather trims.

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This season we’re looking at oriental brocade, embroideries and prints. Both here in Europe and across the pond there has once again been a vast Eastern influence in many designers’ collections. From Jason Wu’s Ming Dynasty warriors to Proenza Schouler’s Samurai inspired take on ‘protection’ this season saw an integration of Eastern influence reformed and redefined by its Western aesthetic.

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Autumn/Winter is over. With James Long, J.W Anderson, Oliver Spencer and Christopher Raeburn out the way for yet another season the fun ends, for London at least. Yet with the end of Autumn Winter usually brings the beginning of production for Spring Summer, and it’s just beginning to hit the shelves. Here’s my round-up of the best Spring Summer 2012 investment T-shirts that buy into a colourful, unorthodox and playful quality in menswear… print.

D&G available on http://www.luisaviaroma.com.

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After a spotlight surrounding the Middleton’s, courtesy of Sarah Burton, there was a lot at stake this season for the McQueen mainline. This season the male became rigid and stiff through firmly structured suit jackets and high breasted double buttoned blazers with a feminine edge.

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Dolce and Gabbana showcased prints fit for a Prince this season as Royal crests and colonial influences conquered light weight t-shirts with rolled sleeves, ripped denim in true D&G style paired with low neck line single buttoned blazers all in a breath-taking collection that showcased laid back wealth.

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Raf Simons edged well away from the vast Crayola colour box we were familiar with last season. Illuminated oranges and intense violets were rinsed under a hot tap and the palette wiped clean to leave behind, a colourless mix of harsh leathers and high-waisted shorts in lightweight wools boasting only patent blacks and deep neutral navy.

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I, myself, have forever been an adoring, unofficial ambassador, and fan of Neil Barrett. His latest collection saw two toned jackets and tailored monotone print trousers come together in a shake up of the traditional young man’s evening suit. Turning it on its head and creating, in the unorthodox Barrett style, an androgynous feel through leather and wool.

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Christopher Bailey has confronted the boundaries of quintessential British design with a post-modern approach to which the Prorsum collection always delivers ambiguity. The masculine tailoring partnered with belted waistlines and hide trimmed duffel coats gave way to a collection far more feminine in fragility than previously suspected. Yet before Bailey’s U turn in gender related design an opening of virtual rain decorated the head board to the catwalk whilst finishing with a much more real type of wet as rain ultimately drenched the entire catwalk.

Unlike Bailey’s tendencies to stick firmly to re modifying the classic and masculine trench coat we were greeted with the likes of astakhan collars framing tailored caban coats in soft baby blues and check felted wool. Shawl collars made entirely of mink decorated black top coats whilst brown mink coats were complimented with lighter shades of suede trimming.

The feminine stance taken by Bailey delivered much deliberation as to the capability of conforming to a sales target, with shawl collars made of mink raising a traditionalist eye brow or two the approach for this collection was certainly no macho mans dream. In fact, the collection gave off a much younger, metro sexual appeal. Over sized sculptural coats engulfed the models with skinny legged grey trousers. The image partly gave way to interpretation of “dress up”. The image of a young boy dressed in his fathers clothes was created through size and the sheer strength in material Bailey decided upon using.

Single breasted trench coats made of laminated wool in bright amber were accompanied with nylon tote bags in dark wine whilst an over sized sculptural coat made entirely of mink fur with leather binding was paired with fur flap caps.

Bailey has been scrutinised for his latest menswear collection yet it is necessary to remember that Burberry has always been an out-wear label and through Bailey’s curiosity and exploration with the elements he ripped the roots of the Prorsum tree out of the ground and displayed them in a rather re-invented manner.

So I applied for an internship at Moschino’s press office today. My lecturers will forever tell me to stop being so picky as to where I apply for work experience but I find the prospect of working for a label so futuristically chic, sophisticated and European (if I can use the word European as an adjective as opposed to a noun) quite possibly thrilling.

I simply can not divulge the secrets to becoming a stylish man. There are rules and acts one must perform each and every day in order to prevent the brain from going into vanity obsessed melt down, whilst at the same time trying to self educate ones self on designers and fashion weeks around the world whilst staying away from a substantial amount of credit cards with 0% interest. It’s all very stressful, but boy do these designers make it all worth the while.

 

Moschino Uomo S/S '11

 

See the collection in all its glory here.

Any long haired mosher would be proud behind this collections inspiration.

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