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Last season London-based designer Benjamin Bertram brought with him a collection entitled Suburban Boys. The collection lacked colour and focussed on a wasting youth, a generation at a loss. This season Benjamin focussed on a youth on the run.

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“Clean room, clean mind” my mother always used to tell me, a precedent that heavily influenced my preference in design aesthetic. In toddler talk, Neil Barrett’s SS14 collection was clean, simplistic and humble. His designs were just that, heavily design led.  Read the rest of this entry »

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Kris Van Assche AW13

Questionably over shadowed for some time by his former colleague, Heidi Slimane, Kris Van Assche was recalled stating in an earlier interview with Interview Magazine that: “this skinny, rock ’n’ roll look had become such a cliché in the streets that any designer would have had to take this collection in a new direction.” That he did, albeit through his new season collection at his eponymous label.

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Joan Rivers once said: “The only thing women don’t want to find in their stockings on Christmas day is their husband.” Preferences aside we’ve selected the best last minute gift ideas for your man to give his wardrobe that overdue stylish booster he just doesn’t seem to have.

French Connection, £225, Frenchconnection.com

French Connection, £225, Frenchconnection.com

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You can take the boy out of the city but you can’t take the city out of the boy as Benjamin Bertram demonstrates in his latest collection, entitled ‘Suburban Boys’.

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Discard the singular idea of fashion for purpose alone. This season designers laced the garment with elegance; counteracting any stereotypical connotation the puffa is bulky, unflattering and excessive in volume alone.

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“Education was a struggle. I suppose my work reflects that! Think for yourself, question authority,” Alex Mattsson tells me. Since graduating from The Royal College of Art in menswear Mattsson has been toying with leather, season to season. With an education shared by the likes of knitwear specialist James Long among Katie Eary and Erdem success seems set in cement for those particular few. Mattsson appears to be no exception.

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Alan Taylor, previously working with Simone Rocha, has taken to redefining the perception of the word ‘masculine’. This season his man is stripped of masculinity, rebuilt and made once more in his new collection that sees tribal referencing, social unrest and chaos with a cause, redefine his definition of menswear entirely.

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I rarely get hysterical about editorial photography, especially menswear. Copious amounts of editing, for me, hinders the idea that fashion photography is there to demonstrate the creative perspective on fashion. Often clothes are too obscured and the concept too conceptual to convey a clear editorial message. After all we’re all buyers as much as we are editorial fans.

Blazers and shorts both by Jil Sander SS12, regal and tartan shirts stylists own.

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Sometime, way back in the late 20s a Frenchwoman known as Luisa Jaquin opened up a boutique selling straw hats in the idyllic city of Paris. Today that boutique store, now based in Florence, has flourished into one of the most luxurious and inviting online stores the retail industry has ever seen, featuring some of the best online campaigns demonstrating the sexiness that Spring/Summer ’12 has to offer for both guys and gals. Now, it’s my favourite place to shop in Florence, without stepping foot outside of the UK.

The Paco Rabanne window display at Luisaviaroma, Florence.

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