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When it rains it pours and at Kenzo we were told a story of water, that is to say Creative Director’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim created a collection with all the components of water. The collection was clean, the cuts either clinical or flowing delivered a show that was altogether a soothing addition to Paris for spring.

 

Opening to the artificial downpour of a rainstorm nostalgic of a brand far more English, think back to Burberry’s show last season, the intimidating roars of thunder cleared the air and gave birth to a collection that transformed look by look. We were greeted with monochromatic sleek, straight cut coats in blinding whites framed with transparent perspex cat eye glasses and bandeau tops and loose fitting three quarter-lengths with white panel detailing.

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In true form no Kenzo collection would be complete without a delicate balance of digital printing and again Leon and Lim explored all areas water had to offer. Reflective fabrics came in the form of monochromatic mini skirts whilst poplin button down shirts were cut in half to reveal models midriffs throughout. The shirts were never hacked though, instead the cuts were rounded and flowing. Prints explored all depths of aqua in lighter hues to darker but always flowed vertically on sleeveless coats and double slit underskirts in fabrics that moved with ease.

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Injections of colour included raspberry in cinched waist dresses against distorted hues of marine injected with a fish print that made sure the collection included elements of the brands beloved humour.

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Leon and Lim created a woman of water this season and fittingly so the elements came together to tell the perfect story. 

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