Proportions are playful for Zeynep Tosun as she delivers her Autumn Winter 2012 collection in a ferocious play on tribalism.

Peplums add a definite sense of femininity to a stern and powerful season for Tosun. Her cuts are so precise they seem almost clinical, perfect even and entirely minimalist.

Rich burgundy, teal and, again, almost clinical white form the foundation of this collection. I find Tosun’s marble inspired prints demonstrate a sense of simplicity as well as growth. These prints sit strikingly on a bed of clean white, climbing up peplums and delicately decorating the leg on a sleek cigarette pant.

Zeynep’s inspiration, taken from fashion photographer Richard Avedon’s elephant photographs, was clear. I found the detail in decoration, coming in the form of tusk collar links, clasps and chokers represented Avedon’s giant mammal well, ironically in the smallest of accessories.

Although large in proportions I enjoyed the way in which Zeynep toyed with the combination of fabrics. A cut out cropped jacket with peplum was given an added sensual aspect paired against a sheer burgundy shirt and layered collar, a theme running through AW this season.

Although strong, I feel there is a distinct sense of vulnerability to Tosun’s collection. Steel chokers add to a sense of ownership and captivity whilst a striking use of layering evokes an opposing sense of sheer strength and independence.