Alan Taylor, previously working with Simone Rocha, has taken to redefining the perception of the word ‘masculine’. This season his man is stripped of masculinity, rebuilt and made once more in his new collection that sees tribal referencing, social unrest and chaos with a cause, redefine his definition of menswear entirely.

His AW12 collection entitled ‘Maske’ features heavy veiling, pleated skirts and fringing inspired by London based Producer SBTRKT’s notoriously hypnotizing tribal masks.

Alan Taylor’s primary focus in this collection is to reinstill the idea of the kilt, originally perceived as a primarily masculine garment, into the male wardrobe. At first glance, I find Taylor’s man intimidating, unpredictable and sinister yet Taylor’s fashion film, (seen below) directed by Zoe Hitchen, adds a sense of romanticism to a violent concept which formed the basis of Taylor’s production, entitled ‘Man’, which takes reference from the London, Paris and Northern Ireland riots.

In researching photography taken from inner city riot zones, movements from still shots have been reinterpreted into flowing choreography that I find eases the brash and violent ways in which a man is now typically defined. Incorporating paisley prints in both shirts and kilts as well as loosely tailored suit jackets featuring cut-out shoulders, I find Alan Taylor’s exploration of the male silhouette softer and less sartorial than the typically modern day male forms.

Alan Taylor AW12 Fashion Film ‘Man’ from Alan Taylor on Vimeo.

Director Zoe Hitchen, alongside model and professional dancer Dom Czapski and choreographer Amy Smith, have, I feel, instilled a sense of heroism into Alan Taylor’s collection. Although based on acts of violence in society I like the way in which Taylor’s man feels far more like a defender than any type of aggravator.