This season we’re looking at oriental brocade, embroideries and prints. Both here in Europe and across the pond there has once again been a vast Eastern influence in many designers’ collections. From Jason Wu’s Ming Dynasty warriors to Proenza Schouler’s Samurai inspired take on ‘protection’ this season saw an integration of Eastern influence reformed and redefined by its Western aesthetic.

 Osman Yousefzada demonstrated a perfect guide to a buyers brocade in demure silvers and faded gold. Nothing, it seemed, was too bold, even in head-to-toe. Instead whispers of personality came in the form of brocade lace up boots and collars over a blank, crisp, white shirt. Brocade to Osman, was the paint on his blank canvas this season.

Dries Van Noten incorporated the motifs into his prints this season, offering a modern take by splicing and mixing in other contrasting references.

If femininity seemed too submissive this season Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough took an alternative inspiration from the East for Proenza, their female was, instead, a warrior. Brocade, in the form of long sleeved dresses, hinting towards a body armor aesthetic, carried such complex construction the dress, seemed made up of separate garments entirely. Fused with open toe heels in black velvet an added sense of strength was apparent.

POST LIFTED FROM FASHION156, WRITTEN BY JOSHUA DREW.
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