Not a boy, not yet a man. MARNI’s male filled no big boots this season and instead, held respectful ground merging elegance with adolescence.

MARNI’s focus behind this collection was made apparent through a structural use of fabrics. Zip-up blousons, shirt-jackets and bonded shearling coats were quilted for the purpose of focusing on warmth.

This idea was complimented alongside the use of furs this season, something we have already been introduced to from designers such as Damir Doma. Fox fur came in the form of cardigans on outerwear but remained predominantly subtle as it decorated vests and a scarf assuring this fabric was primarily used for function over aesthetic.

The palette is deep and classic: hints of deep blue, light grey, grey/blue, mustard, camel, and then notes of burgundy and bright red added to a sophisticated feel without the rigid rules of jaded old age.

Playfulness was most apparent in accessories this season as MARNI included lace-up brogues and penny loafers with a thick sole in luxurious mahogany and black. Bags came in the form of quilted totes as well as block colour leather with attached raccoons tail. Through reinterpretation of a type of elegance more frequently associated with a more mature gentleman MARNI has, perhaps, invented an entirely new flourishing adolescent.

 

With special thanks to Ula at Karla Otto 

Advertisements