A romantic movement set the scene for a Rick Owens show like no other in the raw underground setting of the Palais de Bercy complimenting, once more, the conceptual take Owens adds to functional inspiration.

Movement appeared to be a central focus of the latest menswear collection entitled ‘Mountain’, although the title gave little resemblance to Owens true inspiration, choreographer and dancer Fred Astaire.

Soft fabric, and at times translucent, coiled around the torso of male models whilst draping added a wind swept aesthetic and played with the idea of motion. Yet the waist declared to be the helm of elegance this season as the upper and lower blended with ease in the form of highwaisted pants, demonstrating the house trademark of loose tailoring against a conceptual take.

Owens inspiration became apparent against a concrete setting, as garments demonstrated elegance in functionality. As the show progressed outerwear came in the form of leather piped jackets and sloping shoulder heavy quilted bombers suited to battling the harsh elements of the mountain peak.

Once again, Owens has toyed with the male silhouette in exaggerating aspects of androgyny. This collection, however, felt more corporate as suits made up the staple attire in both singular and double-breasted pieces. Yet the frivolous aspect to Owen’s work remained apparent. The Owen’s man is forever reinventing himself and this collection proved no different in reinterpreting the idea of the twenty first century male.

Photography credit : VALERIO MEZZANOTTI 
With special thanks to ANNE VAN DEN BOSSCHE 

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