We’ve been asphyxiated with Alexander Wang since his six unisex silhouette line shortly after graduating from Parsons. The best thing to come out of San Francisco, alongside Harvey Milk, his new role as Creative Director at Balenciaga saw the sport-luxe cuts we all know him so well for at his eponymous label carried over and merged with Balenciaga’s striking silhouette through the use of sharp cuts in spherical angles in fabrics such as raw leathers and neoprene.
Faced by the strikingly silver mane supermodel Kristen McMenamy the campaign is distressingly heartbreaking, lonely at points whilst paying homage to the early archives of Cristóbal Balenciaga, with shots captured beautifully by Steven Klein.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stole our hearts during their AW12 showing for New York. With their previous trip to Nepal influencing their design aesthetic heavily towards eastern warriors the collection represented strength above all else with cuts relating heavily to armour. This fall, the pair have executed a collection nodding towards east Asia yet far more delicate. Strength this season was not nearly as prominent and instead boucle jackets, light tweed and feathered fringing, featuring model Sasha Pivovarova, sit alongside images of birds, motion shots of flight and detailed black wings.
The indisputable Sarah Burton continued a path beautifully trod by the late Lee Mcqueen this season with a traditional focus on England’s prestigious history. The line, known for its severity, fluidity and striking emotional power, channelled Queen Elizabeth I portraits in vigorous shots of strength. Chain mail, heavy pearls were captured by photographer David Sims, whilst British model Edie Campbell faced the campaign.
Referencing the power of a protestant queen in a notoriously catholic state, childless and on the cuspe of a spanish invasion the campaign ties in beautifully with script writer William Nicholson’s text from Elizabeth: The Golden Age: “I too can command the wind sir! I have a hurricane in me that will strip Spain bare if you dare to try me.”
Shot by Mert & Marcus Givenchy take a monochromatic approach in moody melange colouramas for autumn. The striking inclusion of former French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld and her daughter Julia alongside spanish actress Amanda Seyfried juxtaposed the playful Bamby prints whilst male shots appeared far more Neanderthal. Typically sombre of the house the campaign nodded strongly towards the SS13 mens campaign, both undeniably simplistic and beautifully design led in nature.